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iris van herpen’s dress with algae lights up in paris
Reactive bioluminescent algae lights up the haute couture collection and show of Iris van Herpen in Paris. Co-crafted by biodesigner Christopher Bellamy of Bio Crafted, there are 125 million bioluminescent algae embedded into the dress, showcased by the maison during the Paris Haute Couture Week on July 7th, 2025.
The biomaterial is reactive too; as the wearer moves, the dress glows gently, emitting a bluish glow that lights up in the dark. The maison and biodesigner say that the bioluminescent algae are placed in seawater and then encapsulated inside a nutrient gel that keeps them alive for a long time. The dress with bioluminescent algae forms part of the collection Sympoiesis, the recent series from Iris van Herpen shown in Paris Haute Couture Week.
all images courtesy of Iris van Herpen, unless stated otherwise
Living microorganisms encapsulated in nutrient gel
The collaboration between Iris van Herpen and Christopher Bellamy of Bio Crafted allows the two to tap into the capabilities of living microorganisms such as algae. Back in 2024, the biodesigner worked on and researched the bioluminescent microalgae for just about over nine months. In a post on his Instagram, he says that the microorganism he found was called Pyrocystis Fusiformis. ‘They evolved to emit light as a defense mechanism to startle predators or attract even bigger ones,’ he wrote. He is seen holding a bag with numerous illuminating microalgae as he softly presses the container in his hand.
The same algae now flows through the Sympoiesis dress of Iris van Herpen during the Paris Haute Couture Week, which runs between July 7th and 10th, 2025. The structure of the dress follows the signature coral-inspired designs of the Dutch fashion designer, and as the model walks on the runway, the haute couture emits light, softly at first before it briefly intensifies as she keeps on walking. The maison and biodesigner’s theme is connected to nature, to circadian rhythm, which refers to the natural day-and-night cycle. As the model walks, wearing Iris van Herpen’s algae dress co-created with Christopher Bellamy, the set design also glows in the background through the light sculptures by artist Nick Verstand. These artworks, called biospheric, add more light to the show, making the bioluminescent algae embedded into the Iris van Herpen dress glow even brighter.
there are 125 million bioluminescent algae embedded into the dress
as the wearer moves, the dress glows gently
detailed view of the dress
the bioluminescent algae are placed in seawater and then encapsulated inside a nutrient gel
Christopher Bellamy of Bio Crafted with his bioluminescent microalgae research | image courtesy of Bio Crafted
video documenting the dress on the runway
project info:
name: Sympoiesis
maison: Iris van Herpen | @irisvanherpen
biodesigner: Christopher Bellamy of Bio Crafted | @bio.crafted
light artist: Nick Verstand | @nickverstand
event: Paris Haute Couture Week
dates: July 7th to 10th, 2025
